It’s getting saucy in the kitchen…no, not in that way for those of you who’ve got a dirty mind!
The peak fruit and veg glut time is upon us, and anyone who grows their own will be up to their ears in courgettes (or marrows), tomatoes and more. While you can try and be a ‘super eater’ shoving everything that comes out of the ground into your gob, that gets a bit boring after a while.
And so, to the good old time-honoured tradition of making pickles, sauces and chutneys.
I’ve grown tomatoes for the first time this year. I have to admit, I’m not their biggest fan. But I think that’s down to bad shopping - nothing’s worse than a pale, insipid, watery fruit.
A few years back my palate was magically switched on to toms during a trip to Madrid, where, after a booze-fuelled afternoon in the heat, we were offered the tapas pan con tomate as a little snack. It was transformative that dish. Yet so utterly simple. Charred bread, kissed with a breath of garlic, and rubbed with fresh, sweet tomatoes, finished with a slick of olive oil.
It was the gateway to me tucking into tomato salads, fresh tomato salsas and more besides. And it’s how I’ll enjoy the few toms hanging fragrantly from the vines in my garden.
My mate Sarah was also converted during the trip, so much so, the keen gardener (her allotment is amazing) has dedicated almost her entire greenhouse to the bulbous beauties.
I was tasked with watering them last week - from the teensy, almost translucent pink baby varieties, to weird and wonderful heritage types so big they won’t fit in one hand.
Today’s sauce is what I made with a batch of her glut for her return from holiday. A spicy, garlicky, just slightly sweet tomato ketchup. Use it as a sauce, as a marinade for white fish, chicken or pork, or mix a little with some olive oil and throw over a salad.

Spicy ketchup
(Makes several bottles/jars - I filled three sauce bottles and three jam jars)


Ingredients
4 large onions, finely chopped (I used a food processor)
6 cloves garlic, sliced
3tbsps vegetable oil
1tsp ground coriander
1/2tsp ground cinnamon
3tsps ras el hangout
2tsps sea salt
1tsp chilli flakes
1 green chilli, finely chopped
200ml red wine vinegar
200g brown sugar
2kg tomatoes, roughly chopped

Method
Place the onions and oil in a large saucepan and cook on a low heat until soft but not coloured. Add the spices, salt, garlic and chilli and cook for a few more minutes.
Now add the vinegar, sugar and tomatoes. Bring to the boil, then simmer for an hour. Allow to cool slightly then blitz until smooth in a food processor or blender.
Pass through a sieve back into the pan, bring to the boil and simmer for another 30 minutes. Decant into sterilised bottles and jars.