Four years ago, veganism was one of the hottest consumer trends. But now with multiple plant-based businesses closing in East Anglia, BETHANY WALES asks if we’re falling out of love with the meat-free movement.
Beyond Meat – one of the best-known players in the meat alternative sector – launched with the promise to “eat what you love”.
But following a 30.3pc drop in sales and its shares falling by almost 12pc last quarter, the company’s execs are likely wondering if customers took them too literally.
And while the results are clearly bad news for the US company, they could also be indicative of a general trend away from plant-based products.
A COOLING MARKET
A global survey by vegan firm Strong Roots revealed that even though around 61pc of consumers are cutting the amount of meat included in their diets, 40pc are also reducing or removing fake meats completely.
As a result of this decreased appetite, UK supermarkets have slashed the number of meat-free ranges by 10.9pc in the past six months, with a 7pc fall in volume sales over the year until July, according to research company Kantar.
And the trend isn’t just hitting national businesses.
Here in East Anglia, there has been a spate of vegan businesses closing, including The Little Shop of Vegans in Norwich, plant-based kebab shop Doner Bei Tante Anne, and vegan eatery Erpingham House, on Tombland, which said it was “temporarily closing” in March with no word on when, or if, it would reopen.
So, what exactly is going on?
CHANGING TASTES
Following its survey, Strong Roots said of the 40pc of respondents cutting back on fake meats, almost half (47pc) said taste was behind the decision, followed by 36pc who were worried about artificial additives and another 36pc who said they were put off by the processed nature of the products.
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But according to Joe Hill, the co-founder of Norfolk-based vegan pizza company One Planet Pizza, these factors have changed the way customers shop, rather than turning them off plant-based food entirely.
He said: “I think what’s really happening is that the sector is changing.
“The cost of living means people are more focused on value for money, so supermarkets are dropping the expensive plant-based brands and focusing on their affordable own-brand options.”
Mr Hill, who’s frozen pizzas are now stocked at more than 600 Asda stores across the UK, added that while larger brands might be struggling, smaller, independent businesses were catering to changing tastes.
He said: “There is still growth happening. The cost-of-living crisis has just forced a restart on the industry, and the more expensive options aren’t going to survive.”
One of the local businesses bucking the downward trend is The Little Vegan Butchers, on Rose Lane in Norwich, whose products are free of preservatives and made fresh on site each morning.
Owner Clare-Marie Heapy said that since opening in February, she had been dealing with “the standard challenges facing any new business”, but that appetite was still strong for plant-based products.
She said: “I make everything myself and we don’t use any artificial sulphites, so all my products are fresh and clean.
“We also have gluten-free options, which are really hard to find in the supermarkets.”
"NOT ENOUGH VEGANS"
While some local producers might be fighting the downturn, Mr Hill said he was concerned for vegan restaurants.
He said: “I can see why they’re struggling, because they’ve got these big expensive spaces and by design, isolate a large percentage of self-identifying carnivores.”
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Kevin Reynolds, who runs Netherton Steakhouse in Long Stratton, but is father to two vegan children, agreed that this was a big problem for diners.
He said: “We’re a steakhouse, but we include vegan options because we don’t want to exclude anyone.
“By not providing any meat or fish options they’re alienating customers, and because vegans tend to fall into the younger demographic and potentially have less money to spend on eating out, that’s a problem.
“There’s too many vegan restaurants and not enough vegans.”
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