The new owners of The Wine Vaults in Beccles had big boots to fill as they took on their favourite bar. BRUNO BROWN went along for dinner to put their menu to the test
A crowd of people filled the bar of The Wine Vaults when I popped in with friends. It was nice to see the place so busy since its takeover by new owners, who've definitely fostered a warm and welcoming atmosphere.
After ordering drinks at the bar, we were guided upstairs to the large, traditional dining room, which has a charming feel - oak rafters and beams giving a strong sense of character and cosiness.
Glancing at the menu, all three of us were impressed by the extensive specials, which we were told change depending on what fresh produce the chef has access to each day.
From the specials we chose a starter of moules mariniere with Filo & Twine sourdough and skin-on fries (£8) plus a bowl of olives (£5) to share as a modest appetiser to whet our palates.
The mussels were beautifully succulent and tender, requiring hardly any effort to pull from their shells. A subtle saltiness was present, catapulting me to the beach as I closed my eyes.
What elevated the dish was the deliciously garlicky and creamy white wine sauce they arrived in. So rich in flavour. And so good we almost forgot our manners as, in an unsynchronised frenzy, the three of us jumped in with our hands mopping up every last delicious morsel.
The olives were pleasant, but nothing to sing about. In hindsight the small portion perhaps wasn’t enough for the three of us.
All three main courses that followed were exquisitely presented, with all items on their respective plates thoughtfully and professionally positioned.
We selected a diverse mix between us, with one companion ordering what we were told was the restaurant's most popular dish - Beef Wellington with boulangere potatoes, tenderstem broccoli and red wine gravy (£24).
Another ordered the pork chop schnitzel with pancetta lardons, Parmesan parmentier potatoes and Swiss chard (£19).
And I opted for a dish from the specials - mosaic skrei cod, pea and garlic risotto (£20).
The cod was fleshy and flaky, and complemented wonderfully by the rich garlic and lemon flavours of the risotto. The dish was not too big or carby and felt soft on the stomach.
On the other side of the table the schnitzel came in highly praised by my friend who has spent considerable periods of time in Austria working ski seasons. It was, he said in glowing terms, one of the best he'd ever had.
There was equal enthusiasm for the beef, which was filling, tender and well-cooked.
With stomachs on the verge of explosion, we took a mutual decision to share a Great Anglian cheeseboard (£10) to conclude what had been a hugely pleasant and sophisticated evening of fabulous food and endearing company.
Overall the board was well balanced, but I'd recommend ordering two if there's a group of you. Book and find out more at winevaultsbeccles.co.uk
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