Can you please help? I bought a young camellia plant October or November time last year left it in its original pot for about 6 weeks then transplanted it into ericaceous compost I stood the tub in an outhouse, but the healthy green leaves went brown on the tips and fell off.

Can you please help? I bought a young camellia plant October or November time last year (from an ad in EDP) left it in its original pot for about 6 weeks then transplanted it into ericaceous compost I stood the tub in an outhouse, but the healthy green leaves went brown on the tips and fell off, it is now outside with no leaves at all will it ever be any good? If not how do I grow one?

Mrs VM Judd Downham Market.

I think the big mistake you made was putting it in an outhouse: it would have been much happier outside. As long as they are planted in acid soil, camellias are not difficult to grow, and will even thrive in tricky semi-shaded areas, needing only minimal care once established. Most grow into large shrubs or small trees, but are extremely versatile and can be used as wall shrubs, hedges or superb container specimens.

Camellias need shelter if they are to thrive. An area in dappled shade under trees is ideal, but they will tolerate a more open position if shaded for part of the day. A west-facing aspect is perfect as strong early morning sun on frosted flower buds can cause them to thaw too quickly and drop off. In very exposed gardens, camellias are best fan-trained on a west-facing wall.

Generally, they prefer neutral or acid soil, although camellias will tolerate slightly limey soil, if it is well drained and fertile. Prepare the soil before planting by adding leaf compost and manure.

Container cultivation is the answer for gardeners with chalky soils, since a bag of ericaceous compost will satisfy their needs for acidic growing conditions.

Although they will flower without regular pruning, camellias can outgrow their allotted space unless kept in check. This is best done after flowering but before new growth begins.

Deadheading should be done as the petals fade in order to tidy up the plant and prevent energy being wasted on setting seed. C. x williamsii varieties usually drop their flowers as they fade and do not require deadheading.

Camellias can suffer from scale insects, which look like tiny brown limpets clinging on to the stems and underside of the leaves. In addition to sucking the sap, they secrete honeydew on the leaf surface that becomes colonised by black sooty mould. Protect from aphids by washing them off or use a chemical spray.

Yellow leaves are a common problem with camellias and usually indicate nutrient deficiency. The solution is to apply a balanced liquid fertiliser in spring and autumn.

A type of virus sometimes causes yellow mottling or almost white leaves. This usually occurs on just a few branches and so can be cut out. Annually applied mulch of compost or manure around the root area is beneficial, especially in sandy soils. Avoid spent-mushroom compost as it contains lime.

Camellias, whether in the ground or container, need careful watering in the summer months. A dry spell in summer is the most common cause of winter bud drop.

Could you please help me, I live next door to a meadow which has a large amount of rabbits, which come into my garden day and night to eat my bedding plants. Are there any plants they won't eat?

Mr P Clarke Poringland.

No plants can be said to be rabbit proof. Rabbits eat virtually anything, and most plants are vulnerable when young. However, there are some plants which rabbits generally avoid. In general, rabbits are discouraged by very aromatic plants, prickles and spines, tough, leathery leaves. The following plants are well worth experimenting with; these include shrubs perennials and bulbs.

Aucuba (spotted Laurel) Berberis) Buxus (box) Choisya (Mexican orange blossom) Arundinaria and other bamboos Cornus (dogwood) Cotoneaster Daphne Cortaderia (pampass grass) Elaeagnus Fuchsia Gaultheria Hippophae Hypericum Ilex (holly) Olearia Rhododendron Rhus (smoke bush, sumach) Rosa (spiny species) Rosmarinus (rosemary) Ruscus (butchers broom) Sambucus (elder) Symphoricarpus (snowberry) Taxus (yew) Viburnum Yucca

Digitalis (foxglove) Acanthus Eryngium (sea holly) Euphorbia (spurge) Geranium Helleborus Lupin Osteospermum Poppies Paeonies Sedum Solomon's Seal Aconitum (Monkswood)

Anemone Colchicum (autumn crocus) Convallaria (lily of the valley) Daffodils) Hyacinth Irises Ligularia Snowdrops

I was wondering if you could help me identify a plant that appeared in my garden last summer. I have enclosed a photograph that I took last September. I have not seen anything like it before and have no idea what it is or where it has come from, it is about 3ft 6ins in height and has pale blue white flowers that open and close randomly during the day time, what I also find unusual are the flower buds they have five sections. I would be very grateful if you could help in identifying this plant and tell me if it is friend or foe. Hoping for your response in due course.

P Rawlings Norwich

This plant is commonly called the shoo fly plant: the Latin name is Nicandra physalodes. This is a fast-growing bushy plant reaching a height of or four feet. It has large lobed leaves, and large blue flowers with rounded petals and a deep throat, followed by papery seedpods containing a large berry which look similar to the Chinese lanterns which give the plant its Latin name. There are also varieties with mauve or white flowers. The common name refers to the fact that some people regard the plant as a deterrent to whitefly.

The seed pod is a large berry inside the papery calyx the seeds are yellowish brown chips, there are many seeds in a seedpod. The seedling is large and fast-growing. The first true leaves are pointed, often with a dark stem.

t Easton College would like to invite you to participate in a new range of taster courses run in partnership with Radio Norfolk. The first session is on Wednesday 4th April 1-3pm. The course will look at the gardening basics, where to start, soil improvement and call a spade a spade. The cost of these sessions is £10 per session. To book a place call Easton college 01603 731219.